Ouro Preto — City of Gold and Charm

     If it weren’t for the heat, humidity and the fact everyone speaks Portuguese, I might believe I’m in an old European town. The cobblestone streets are narrow and winding with little room to maneuver. As I punch a destination in Google Maps, I see our route will take us well around the city with several switchback turns. It’s not until I take the car out that I come to realize the incline on some streets is so steep the front wheel drive car I’ve rented can barely make it to the top. When it rains…forget about it. My rental and I become The Little Engine that Could. 

    There is a rich history in Ouro Preto (Black Gold) in Minas Gerais. The city was settled in the late 17th century and has always been known for its gem stones. I drove over to the Tiradentes Plaza this morning to do a little souvenir shopping. What I found was an unusual assortment of soapstone items ranging in size from a small box to an entire coffee service. And there were so many jewelry stores.

    A man behind the counter asked us what we found interesting in the display case. There was an assortment of rings, necklaces, earrings all with gem stones of different sizes, shapes and colors. This man behind the counter explained how the darker stone with a richer color was more valuable than another, lighter one. He then took me to a display case with several examples of Imperial Topaz embedded in stone. I noticed a gold nugget and asked him if the precious metal is mined in the area. He informed me people find tiny nuggets of gold in the rivers, meaning the rocks break away in a cave somewhere and end up in the water.

    By this time the owner came behind the counter as the other “salesman” returned to his regular janitorial duties. The shop owner was a charming man who took an instant liking to my shopping buddy and me. He could also be Forrest Whitaker’s doppelgänger right down to the droopy eye. As we asked questions about different stones and decided on what we would buy, the owner answered our questions with patience. 

    My companion and I learned that just about any type of precious and semi-precious stone and metal can be found in the region with the exception of rubies and sapphires. The display cases boasted garnet, aquamarine, peridot, amethyst, a few diamonds and imperial topaz. We each purchased a couple of pieces of jewelry and carefully tucked them into the zippered pouch of our purses. 

    Ouro Preto is a city of ups and downs. Literally. It was once a thriving gold rush town that has become a favorite tourist destination. And there’s much more to see than stores. A sculptor by the name of Aleijadinho inspired the baroque architecture of the many Catholic Churches gracing the city’s hilltops.

    The city is also known to be the hometown of one of Brazil’s most famous revolutionaries. Tiradentes (literally teeth puller) was the nickname of the man who argued against imperialism and protested for Brazil’s independence from the Portuguese Crown. Tiradentes, along with his fellow insurrectionists were arrested, but because Tiradentes didn’t have a rich family to bail him out, he was hanged for his crimes against the crown. This set off a revolt and a few years later Brazil became a republic.

    It seems odd a little town tucked away in the hills of Minas Gerais could hold so much history. But it does. Ouro Preto has kept its charm as well. Many of the buildings are original from the colonial era. The churches retain their architectural beauty, the cobble stone streets continue to be steep, narrow, treacherous. It’s unlike any other town I’ve seen in this country. I could visit again if someone else drove.